ParfumPlus Arabia

Escentia Jeanne Askenova of Argeville enlightens us on cistus, the raw material embodying resilience, complexity and fragrance soul AS A PERFUMER, I’ve worked with countless raw materials, each with its own character and story. But one has always stood apart for me: cistus. There’s something about its duality, its quiet strength, its earthy elegance, that speaks directly to my instincts. I often say I’m a daughter of the Kazakh steppes, a place where beauty is vast, harsh, and silent. Cistus reminds me of that. It holds something wild and rooted. Something ancient yet alive. WHAT IS CISTUS? Cistus comes from Cistus ladanifer, a shrub that thrives in the sun-drenched landscapes of the Mediterranean. When the plant is stressed by heat, it protects itself by releasing a sticky resin. This resin is then collected and transformed into CISTUS: THERAW MATERIAL THATSPEAKS TOMYROOTS different perfumery materials, cistus oil, cistus resinoid or labdanum absolute, depending on the method of extraction. In perfumery, the term cistus may refer to several materials from the same plant: • Cistus essential oil is obtained by steam distilling the leaves and branches. It carries a herbal, smoky and slightly medicinal scent, sometimes valued for its therapeutic properties. • Cistus resinoid is a thicker extract made with solvents. To put it simply, it’s like the raw, concentrated “essence” of the resin—dark, balsamic, leathery, and very long-lasting. Perfumers use it as a foundation in amber, oriental, or leather accords. P A R F U M P L U S 12