ParfumPlus Arabia

PP: LAURENCE, YOU’VE WORKED ACROSS LATIN AMERICA AND ASIA—HOW HAVE THESE CULTURAL INFLUENCES SHAPED YOUR PERFUMERY STYLE? Laurence Leon: Having the chance to be exposed to dozens of different cultures and rituals associated with the use of flowers, and fruit... Tasting new combinations of foods... all this intensely nourishes a creativity born of all these shared scenes of life! The expression of a fragrance depends so much on its cultural environment, and its meaning can vary greatly from one culture to another. That’s what opens up an infinite field of possibilities—all barriers come down and creativity is unleashed! There's only one watchword for me: the quest for harmony! PP: NUTESSENCE IS YOUR CONTRIBUTION TO THE SIGNATURE. WHAT WAS YOUR VISION FOR THIS BASE, AND HOW DOES IT ELEVATE A FRAGRANCE? LL: The current hype for gourmand notes left me a little disappointed when it came to reproducing the scent of nuts... In my family, we have a tradition of making our own pralines, and I consume these fruits daily, both for their virtues and the exoticism they convey. NutEssence is the fruit of my desire to rediscover the subtly roasted, gourmet scent of pecans and macadamias caramelising in the cauldron... Scents full of emotion, true Proust's madeleines that do good for both body and soul. It can be combined with flowers or woods, adding a surprisingly edible dimension to otherwise unremarkable combinations. PP: CÉLINE, YOU CREATED CUIRETHIC AND PALAURA FOR THE SIGNATURE. WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION BEHIND THESE BASES, AND HOW DO THEY ENHANCE COMPOSITIONS? Céline Ripert: Behind the creation of CuirEthic and Palaura, the approach is different, but the objective is the same: to offer high-impact bases that are yet subtle in their faceting and can be used at low dosages so as not to be detected by analytical methods. The CUIRETHIC speciality is flexible, textured, and intense, with a lively grip right from the top, while offering incredible longevity. It can be used either to add a unique, signature leathery accord to a fragrance or to sublimate certain amber, vanilla, woody, or even fruity facets. With its remarkable intensity, it offers a wide variety of applications, from the obvious to the subtle, which is what makes it so rich. PALAURA speciality is a meticulously crafted composition, inspired as closely as possible by nature's message in this mystical wood. Its unique olfactory signature adds a sacred, meditative dimension. The Palo Santo note is uncommon in perfumery, and its many facets create unexpected associations that surprise and intrigue. PP: NATURAL RAW MATERIALS PLAY A KEY ROLE IN YOUR WORK. WHAT IS ONE NATURAL INGREDIENT THAT CONTINUALLY SURPRISES YOU, AND WHY? CR: Patchouli. Because it's irreplaceable, and we haven't yet unlocked all its secrets. It adds a touch of mystery and sensuality to a fragrance. Its use, even in very small quantities, can completely change the balance of a perfume. It’s a local raw material, requiring a specific production process. It can be smelled in the top, middle, and base notes... It’s unique! parfumplusmag.com ❚ LAURENCE LEON, PERFUMER, EXPRESSIONS PARFUMÉES’ P A R F U M P L U S 36