ParfumPlus

One of the earliest and most significant uses of Tonka bean in perfumery was by Guerlain in 1889 with the creation of “Jicky.” This iconic fragrance was the first to feature Tonka bean, and its success cemented the bean’s place in the perfume industry. Aimé Guerlain, the creator of “Jicky,” was so enamoured with Tonka bean that he incorporated it into the Guerlinade—a blend of raw materials that became the signature olfactory element for all Guerlain fragrances. This innovation established the Tonka bean as a fundamental component of the Guerlain brand’s fragrance identity. MODERN USES AND POPULARITY In contemporary perfumery, the Tonka bean continues to be a beloved ingredient, celebrated for its versatility and depth. It blends harmoniously with a variety of other notes, enhancing and complementing them to create complex and alluring fragrances. For example, in Tom Ford’s “Tobacco Vanille,” Tonka bean combines with labdanum to produce a warm amber accord that is both sensual and sophisticated. Similarly, in Caron’s “Pour un Homme,” the bean’s almondy richness is paired with lavender to add depth and texture. MARION GARCIA CAMARET’S TONKA BEAN TALE My journey with Tonka bean began with the legendary “Shalimar,” a fragrance that enchanted me with its seamless blend of bergamot, iris, rose, jasmine, and Tonka bean. The fresh brightness of bergamot contrasted beautifully with the creamy, vanilla-like warmth of Tonka bean. This perfect balance of sweet and floral notes made the fragrance truly memorable. Interestingly, I find Tonka Bean most impactful in men’s fragrances. Its deep, seductive base note adds a bold, confident character that elevates masculine scents, making them more appealing and unforgettable. The subtle sensuality it brings gives these fragrances a magnetic allure, transforming them into something irresistible. Tonka bean also carries a nostalgic charm for me. Its sweet, almondy, vanilla-like aroma transports me back to childhood, reminding me of the comforting scent of my Corolle doll. This personal connection adds an emotional layer to my appreciation of the ingredient, as it evokes both warmth and familiarity. For me, Tonka bean is more than just an element in fragrance—it’s a bridge between past and present, a note that enhances not only the complexity of perfumes but also the sensory experiences that accompany them. Whether it’s the elegance of a floral bouquet or the confident depth of a men’s scent, the Tonka bean continues to be a treasured ingredient in my fragrance journey. “In contemporary perfumery, the Tonka bean continues to be a beloved ingredient, celebrated for its versatility and depth. It blends harmoniously with a variety of other notes” P A R F U M P L U S 14