Parfumplus

P A R F U M P L U S 14 substitute in more sustainable materials with higher biodegradability and renewability scores, all while keeping a similar olfactory profile. This offers unparalleled opportunity to design fragrances to be more environmentally conscious, potentially offering significant cost savings and increasing consumer demand. ARYBALLE : AN OLFACTORY COMPASS Aryballe is building a digital library of odours. With one sniff, the company’s sensor technology can identify an odour or fragrance not just based on single compounds but based on the way our nose detects scents through our receptors. It then situates this odour or odour composition on a digital odour map in relation to other fragrances or odours. One can zoom in to see similar odours and zoom out to view clusters of different odour groups. "Imagine you are using your GPS, it knows where you are on a continent, in a city and will help you navigate the space. Here, there are different continents, the vanilla continent, and the fruity continent for example.", explains the company spokesperson. The technology can be a compass. As a perfumer’s tool, it can eliminate the step of a perfumer inputting a formula. It also allows them to work with more formula candidates and visualise the odour profile before executing a new fragrance, thereby greatly reducing time and cost associated with fragrance creation. KAORIUM : TRANSLATING SCENT INTO WORDS In a retail setting there still has not been much innovation beyond transferring an online quiz onto an in-store touch display or creating a blind smelling experience in which consumers can smell fragrances without knowing which brand or fragrance they are currently smelling—thereby eliminating visual and brand biases. This is where Kaorium enters the stage. Phylria can suggest alternative materials, considering dosing for each ingredient based on usage patterns, pleasantness and novelty of the fragrance by comparing it to a large set of commercially available fragrances. The technology also takes into consideration the technical qualities of raw material, including the molecular bloom, weight, vapour pressure and threshold of human perception. For a creative exploration, a perfumer can analyse the output formulas and choose a selection of them to be compounded in order to smell them. The operating perfumer can also direct the Phylria platform to generate new combinations of fragrance formulations that fit specific design objectives—for example, creating a unique fragrance for teenagers in the Middle East. AI-DRIVEN REGULATORY & SUSTAINABILITY COMPLIANCE In addition to pushing the creative boundaries, Phylria algorithm also suggests ingredient substitutes for formulas to comply with new safety and regulatory standards. It can, for instance,