ParfumPlus Arabia

THE ADVANTAGES OF SYNTHETIC AMBERGRIS There are several synthetic, branded ambergris that are used extensively in the creation of fragrances. Some of them are even produced using biotechnology—or the use of natural science instead of petroleum-based products—for an even better sustainability profile. In a perfume formula, the mention of “ambergris,” can mean the inclusion of one of these synthetic ingredients, but it can also refer to an accord made of different synthetic ambergris ingredients, some dry hay notes and other raw materials. Speaking of sustainability, synthetic ambergris is the only solution, and virtually nobody uses the natural raw material anymore. Synthetic ambergris has become the only option for perfumers the world over, but beyond a much more ecological track record, it offers other interesting properties. Aside from being far more affordable, the other major advantage that stands out with regards to synthetic ambergris is the consistency of the quality of the ingredient. “What’s important for us perfumers is to be able to create fragrances that are reproducible,” says Olaf Larsen, “when consumers repurchase their favorite brand, the quality of the perfume must meet their expectations, each time.” While synthetic ambergris is more accessible from a cost perspective, its production is complex and time-consuming. The raw material used to create synthetic ambergris is most often clary sage, from which one extracts sclareol. But because the best quality sclareol comes from Russia, the price of this chemical compound has increased quite significantly in recent months due to geopolitical tensions in the region. AMBERGRIS IN MIDDLE EASTERN PERFUMES A typical Middle Eastern fragrance accord is called a mukhallat, meaning “mixture” in Arabic. A traditional mukhallat will contain the following perfumery raw materials: rose, saffron, sandalwood and oud, but in the past fifteen to “While synthetic ambergris is more accessible from a cost perspective, its production is complex and time-consuming” P A R F U M P L U S 26