ParfumPlus Arabia

“Ambergris also known as grey amber, is the go-to ingredient in the perfumer’s palette” Larsen, who was named Perfumer of the Year at last year’s Beautyworld Middle East awards in 2021, wowed the jury with three creations all containing ambergris. SEDUCTION IN A BOTTLE Ambergris, which is also known as grey amber, is the go-to ingredient in the Perfumer’s palette when designing a scent that must smell clean and fresh, with an ozonic characteristic. Beyond delivering incredible freshness, ambergris, when formulated into a fine perfume, has a deep impact on how people feel. Perfumers talk about its sensual appeal. Ambergris is all about the power of seduction. FROM THE SEASIDE TO THE PERFUMER’S LAB In its natural form, ambergris is a solid substance that is expelled from sperm whales after consuming giant squids. In its pure form, one might think that ambergris would smell unpleasant, but over time it acquires an interesting and agreeable sweet, earthy smell. Perfumers also point out that, surprisingly, the odor of natural ambergris is reminiscent of a horse barn, with tobacco and hay notes. The origins of this material and its stone-like appearance once washed up on the shore, make it both hard to find and extremely expensive. One kilo of ambergris will sell between $35,000 and $50,000. Because of these exorbitant prices and the fact that it comes from an endangered marine mammal, today’s perfumers rely on synthetic ambergris. Historically, the ambergris that was used for perfumery, was extracted by tincture, which consisted in leaving the raw material to macerate for several months in a solvent, such as ethanol. P A R F U M P L U S 25