ParfumPlus Arabia
In the 90s, when the image I proposed was questioned, it was the very matter of my life that was shaken... minimalism, are coded there. During the same period, I became acquainted with Morocco, its antinomy. The exuberance, the lyricism were the breath of irrepressible sensuality, stemming from my tragic disorder... These two paradoxes are undeniably part of my psyche. CC : THE CULT “NOMBRE NOIR” AND “FÉMINITÉ DU BOIS” HAVE COMPLETELY SHAKEN UP THE OLFACTORY CODES OF PERFUMERY. WE CAN SAY THAT THERE IS A BEFORE AND AN AFTER THESE TWO CREATIONS AS THE ARTISTIC BIAS IS DARING. WHAT INITIATED THIS SHIFT? S L : It’s a long story. When I went to Firmenich for a ten-day study in 1980, “Nombre Noir” was, so to speak, finished. The olfactory construction was then not my subject: by its look, its external appearance, “Nombre Noir” was to, through its matte black on glossy black, determine in angles a new era of luxury in perfumery. TEN YEARS LATER, it was with “Féminité du Bois” that I created the composition. At that time, the scent was unidentifiable. The ingredients no longer revealed themselves but cloaked the identity. With the strength of its reproduction, and continued success, we no longer felt its qualities except through the fear of “not selling”. “FÉMINITÉ DU BOIS” was a precise, identifiable perfume. I let the wood speak: more than 60%. Woody until then was confined to the ‘Adams’ of marketing: “Le bois c’est pour les hommes” (Wood is for men)! There were many who told me that with “Féminité du Bois”, they finally had a perfume that suited them and spoke to them! IN THE FRENCH word “s’écrire” (to write to yourself) there is the anagram “s’écrier” (to cry out). This new page in my history turns to the one of perfume, which was born with “Féminité du bois” in 1992. It was a success and became the benchmark for almost all the brands that incorporated its construction, in more or less acceptable form, to their palette. CC : YOU WERE SEDUCED BY JAPAN, WHAT WAS ITS INFLUENCE ON YOUR CREATIONS? S L : Without declaring itself - it was long before I met it - Japan had already been incubated. This trip in 1971 interested me only by the affirmation of this part of myself. Rigor, control, discipline, P A R F U M P L U S 14
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