ParfumPlus Arabia

VISHESH VIJAYVERGIYA REPRESENTS the 6th generation in the 160+ years family business of Fragrances. Here in this final part of a two part article, he shares his insights about perfume bases. (Continued from article in previous issue) Bases are not new entrants into the world of perfumery and are not necessarily complex concoctions. In fact, some of the extremely popular bases were simplistic blend of only a handful of ingredients. What sets them apart is their singular usage that overhauls the perfume in which they have been used. For example, the emblematic base Ambre 83 which defined the Amber accord, as we know today, has been used in the super successful Amber Sultan (Serge Lutens). However, at other times, these bases can be exceptionally complex blends too, encompassing a lot of captive ingredients that have been invented by chemists and technicians working in R&D laboratories. These bases assist in ‘covertly’ releasing the captive and yet maintaining the exclusivity since perfume formulations may not be practically protected by patents. Moreover, with the help of assistance of GCMS, it is relatively easy to get the formula, which in turn can be used to produce imitations or ‘inspirations’. However, a new molecule can be patented and protected from competitors. It makes commercial sense to release the captive in Base – because even if the customer somehow gets to know the molecule, they cannot manufacture it since it is patented and hence, obliged to buy the Base from the company that invented that molecule. For example, Ultrazur is based on captive molecule Azurone, De Laire base “Poivre Pique DL” is possibly based on Belanis. Important examples of now released captives include Hedione in Eau Sauvage (C. Dior, 1966), Moxalone in CK Be (Calvin Klein, 1996), and Dynascone in Cool Water (Davidoff, 1988) (Yes, Hedione was once a captive!) BASES PROVIDE BUILDING BLOCK OF FRAGRANCE CREATION In-house bases can also be developed with the most common ingredients that form around 80% of a formula. For example, the Iso E Super– Galaxolide–Isoraldeine–Hedione accord also known as Grojsman accord, and the Lyral-Ionone- Galaxolide-Hedione accord that can form the base of countless creations – just add a bit of Melonal and it becomes a modern fruity fragrance or add a dash of Pharone and it becomes a contemporary P A R F U M P L U S 33