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Even though Joy is focused much on rose and jasmine, it was created not to represent a single flower but to capture the essence of all flowers. In this sense, Joy can also be viewed as an abstract perfume. Indeed, Joy also utilizes aldehydes in its top notes – the same synthetic compounds that contributed to the success of Chanel No. 5 and Arpège. While the top and middle notes of Joy are composed of fruity and floral scents, the base of sandalwood, musk, and civet, is dominated by an animalistic character. Another of the early abstract perfumes, Arpège released by Lanvin in 1927, has shared the longstanding success of No. 5. Arpège was originally created by Andre Fraysse as a complement to the 30th birthday of Jeanne Lanvin's daughter. The name Arpège stands for the musical term arpeggio, which means the notes of a chord played one after another instead of simultaneously. Perfume is often compared to music, and because Lanvin's daughter was a musician, the name is especially fitting. Aprège combines over 60 floral fragrances with aldehydes and bergamot, all laid on top of a base composed of sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, and vanilla. The scent is complex right from the start, and only builds up after the initial blast. The original Arpège was reformulated in 1993 to appeal to a younger crowd, but the overall impression of the perfume remains the same. While Arpège is considered a classic floral fragrance, it is Jean Patou's Joy that many consider the ultimate floral perfume. Joy was launched in 1930 at the height of the Great Depression, and even though it was marketed by Patou as the world's most expensive perfume in times of great economical trouble, the fragrance sold well. In fact, Joy is still exceedingly popular, and is considered the second most successful perfume in the world after Chanel No. 5. Reflecting back on these great perfumes, one is tempted to ask just what makes a perfume a classic. From Mitsouko's oriental exoticism to Joy's abstract floral essence, there is only one combining element; namely, that each perfume has managed to capture the spirit of their time. In the end there is no standard formula for a successful perfume. It all depends on the magical effect the fragrant compounds create when sprayed on the skin. © FOURPLUS MEDIA parfumplusmag.com P A R F U M P L U S 16