ParfumPlus Arabia

P A R F U M P L U S 40 Oriental to Woody Amber.. And generally there will be many variations where oil houses would use their own versions like Balsamic Amber, Leathery Amber or Dry Amber. HEREARESOME INDUSTRYRESPONSES: CPL AROMAS CPL Aromas has undertaken a revamp of its Olfactive Mapping, in line with the recent unveiling of Fragrances of the World® by Michael Edwards, and completely does away with the term Oriental in its many forms, replacing it with Amber. Rawya Catto, General Manager for CPL Aromas Middle East and a fragrance expert, said “We are very happy to be among the first major fragrance houses to take the step of modernising the language in our Olfactive Mapping. There was no malice when the first one was created almost a century ago in France, but the time is right to bring the fragrance industry forward, and we are here for it”. She added, “what we didn’t want is change for change’s sake: besides the necessary update of the Oriental language across the board, we kept other classical structure names like Fougère and Chypre”. Chris Pickthall, CEO of CPL Aromas, commented “We are happy to be among the first fragrance houses to support with our actions the important language statement by Fragrances of the World. It represents a shift from the old, Eurocentric fragrance world into a truly new, global world of olfactive wonders, fully in line with our ethos of sustainability, innovation and independence”. EUROFRAGRANCE Antoine de Riedmatten of Eurofragrance, had this to say, “To our knowledge the majority of fragrance houses are not using Michael Edwards wheel. Everyone has their own fragrances genealogy, which are more or less similar. Transforming the Oriental family into Amber is a weird move. Amber is for sure a key olfactive note in many Oriental creations, but also used in several other olfactive families. This new classification is rather confusing, and the reason behind the change is not clear. In our world, we distinguish Oriental olfactive family, which is the one including vanilla, amber, musk, balsamic, spicy… and the oriental perfumery which encompass the fragrances developed in the Gulf. At the end of the day, it is not so important, as fragrances are much more than words. Long life to Oriental!”

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